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Sump - removal and refitting
In-car engine repair procedures / Sump - removal and refitting


Removal
Note: To carry out this task with the engine/transmission installed in the vehicle requires the assistance of at least one person, plus the equipment necessary to raise and support the front of the vehicle (high enough that the sump can be withdrawn from underneath), and to lift and support the complete engine/transmission unit 2 to 3 inches from its mountings while the vehicle is raised. Precise details of the procedure will depend on the equipment available - the following is typical.

The full procedure outlined below must be followed, so that the mating surfaces can be cleaned and prepared to achieve an oil-tight joint on reassembly, and so that the sump can be aligned correctly; depending on your skill and experience, and the tools and facilities available, it may be that this task can be carried out only with the engine removed from the vehicle.

Note that the sump gasket must be renewed whenever it is disturbed.

1 With the vehicle parked on firm level ground, open the bonnet and disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead - see Chapter 5, Section 1.

2 Drain the engine oil, then clean and refit the engine oil drain plug, tightening it to the specified torque wrench setting. Although not strictly necessary as part of the dismantling procedure, owners are advised to remove and discard the oil filter, so that it can be renewed with the oil (see Chapter 1).

3 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1).

4 Disconnect the radiator bottom hose from the radiator union and from the (heater) coolant pipe. Unbolt the coolant pipe from the sump; if they will prevent sump removal, disconnect or release the coolant hoses from the oil cooler unions (where fitted).

5 Unscrew the two bolts securing the power steering system pipes to the right-hand side of the subframe.

6 Unplug the electrical connector(s) to disconnect the oxygen sensor and, where fitted, the oil level sensor wiring - unclip the connectors to release the wiring where necessary.

7 Where the vehicle is fitted with automatic transmission, trace the fluid cooler lines from the transmission to the radiator, and release them from any clips etc, so that they have as much movement as possible.

8 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt cover (see Chapter 1).

9 Unscrew the nuts to disconnect the exhaust system front downpipe from the manifold, then either unhook all the systemТs rubber mountings and withdraw the complete exhaust system from under the vehicle, or remove only the downpipe/catalytic converter (see Chapter 4 for details).

10 Unscrew the sump-to-transmission bolts, also any securing the engine/transmission lower adaptor plate.

11 Unplugging the two electrical connectors, disconnecting the vacuum hose (where fitted) and disconnecting the crankcase breather hose from the cylinder head cover, remove the complete air cleaner assembly with the air mass meter, the resonator and the plenum chamber (see Chapter 4).

12 Take the weight of the engine/ transmission unit using the lifting eyes provided on the cylinder head; bolt on additional lifting eyes where required (see illustration). Remove completely the engine/transmission front mounting, unscrew the rear mountingТs centre bolt, and unbolt the left-hand mounting from the body.

Unscrew the six nuts securing the right-hand mounting bracket, and withdraw the bracket.

15.12 Equipment must be available to raise and support engine/transmission
15.12 Equipment must be available to raise and support engine/transmission unit while vehicle is raised, to allow sump removal

13 Being careful to watch the wiring, coolant hoses, fluid cooler pipes or gearchange linkage and transmission support rods (where appropriate), and the radiator electric cooling fan, to ensure that nothing is trapped, stretched or damaged, lift the engine/transmission unit by 2 to 3 inches and support it securely.

14 Progressively unscrew the sump retaining bolts. Break the joint by striking the sump with the palm of the hand, then lower the sump and withdraw it with the engine/transmission lower adaptor plate; note the presence of any shims between the sump and transmission.

15 Remove and discard the sump gasket; this must be renewed as a matter of course whenever it is disturbed.

16 While the sump is removed, take the opportunity to remove the oil pump pick-up/ strainer pipe and to clean it (see Section 16).

Refitting
17 On reassembly, thoroughly clean and degrease the mating surfaces of the cylinder block/crankcase and sump, then use a clean rag to wipe out the sump and the engineТs interior. If the oil pump pick-up/strainer pipe was removed, fit a new gasket and refit the pipe, tightening its screws to the specified torque wrench setting. Fit the new gasket to the sump mating surface so that the gasket fits into the sump groove (see illustration).

15.17 Ensure gasket is located correctly in sump groove
15.17 Ensure gasket is located correctly in sump groove

18 If the sump is being refitted with the engine/transmission still connected and in the vehicle, proceed as follows: (a) Check that the mating surfaces of the sump, the cylinder block/crankcase and the transmission are absolutely clean and flat. Any shims found on removal of the sump must be refitted in their original locations.

(b) Apply a thin film of suitable sealant (Ford recommend Hylosil 102) to the junctions of the cylinder block/crankcase with the oil pump and the crankshaft left-hand oil seal carrier. Without delay - the sump bolts must be fully tightened within 10 to 20 minutes of applying the sealant - offer up the sump and engine/transmission lower adaptor plate, and refit the bolts, tightening them lightly at first (see illustration).

15.18 Engine/transmission lower adaptor plate (arrowed) must be refitted with
15.18 Engine/transmission lower adaptor plate (arrowed) must be refitted with sump

(c) Ensuring that the engine/transmission lower adaptor plate is correctly located, firmly press the sump against the transmission, and tighten the transmission-to-sump (ie, engine) bolts to the specified torque wrench setting.

(d) Without disturbing the position of the sump, and working in a diagonal sequence from the centre outwards, tighten the sump bolts to the specified torque wrench setting.

(e) Proceed to paragraph 20.

19 If the sump is being refitted with the engine and transmission separated (in or out of the vehicle), proceed as follows: (a) Apply a thin film of suitable sealant (Ford recommend Hylosil 102) to the junctions of the cylinder block/crankcase with the oil pump and the crankshaft left-hand oil seal carrier (see illustration). Without delay - the sump bolts must be fully tightened within 10 to 20 minutes of applying the sealant - offer up the sump to the cylinder block/crankcase, and insert the sump bolts, tightening them lightly at first.

15.19A Apply sealant (arrowed) as directed when refitting sump
15.19A Apply sealant (arrowed) as directed when refitting sump

(b) Using a suitable straight edge to check alignment across the flat-machined faces of each, move the sump as necessary so that its left-hand face - including any shims found on removal - is flush with that of the cylinder block/crankcase (see illustration). Without disturbing the position of the sump, and working in a diagonal sequence from the centre outwards, tighten the sump bolts to the specified torque wrench setting.

15.19B Checking alignment of sump with cylinder block/crankcase
15.19B Checking alignment of sump with cylinder block/crankcase

(c) Check again that both faces are flush before proceeding; if necessary, unbolt the sump again, clean the mating surfaces, and repeat the full procedure to ensure that the sump is correctly aligned.

(d) If it is not possible to achieve exact alignment by moving the sump, shims are available in thicknesses of 0.25 mm (colour-coded yellow) or 0.50 mm (colourcoded black) to eliminate the discrepancy (see illustration).

15.19C Sump-to-cylinder block/crankcase alignment shims
15.19C Sump-to-cylinder block/crankcase alignment shims

1 Fitting points on sump 2 Shim

20 The remainder of reassembly is the reverse of the removal procedure, noting the following points.

(a) Tighten all fasteners to the torque wrench settings specified.

(b) Always renew any self-locking nuts disturbed on removal.

(c) Lower the engine/transmission unit into place, and reassemble the rear, left-hand and right-hand mountings. Do not yet release the hoist; the weight of the engine/transmission unit must not be taken by the mountings until all are correctly aligned.

(d) Fitting the Ford service tool in place of the front mounting, tighten the engine/transmission mounting fasteners to their specified torque wrench settings, and in the sequence described in Part B of this Chapter, Section 4, paragraphs 49 and 50.

(e) Refill the cooling system (see Chapter 1).

(f) Refill the engine with oil, remembering that you are advised to fit a new filter (see Chapter 1).

(g) Check for signs of oil or coolant leaks once the engine has been restarted and warmed-up to normal operating temperature.


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