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Piston/connecting rod assemblies - removal
Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures / Piston/connecting rod assemblies - removal

Note: Always check first what replacement parts are available before planning any overhaul operation; refer to Section 1 of this Part. A Ford dealer, or a good engine reconditioning specialist/automotive parts supplier, may be able to suggest alternatives which will enable you to overcome the lack of replacement parts.

Note: While this task is theoretically possible when the engine is in place in the vehicle, in practice, it requires so much preliminary dismantling, and is so difficult to carry out due to the restricted access, that owners are advised to remove the engine from the vehicle first. In addition to the new gaskets and other replacement parts required, a hoist will be needed. Alternatively, an adjustable engine support bar, fitting into the water drain channels on each side of the bonnet aperture, and having a hook which will engage the engine lifting eyes and allow the height of the engine to be adjusted, could be used. Lifting equipment such as this can be hired from most tool hire shops - be sure that any such equipment is rated well in excess of the combined weight of the engine/transmission unit.

1 Remove the cylinder head (Part A of this Chapter, Section 14).

2 Bolt lifting eyes to suitable points on the engine and transmission, then attach the lifting equipment so that the engine/ transmission unit is supported securely.

3 Remove the sump (Part A of this Chapter, Section 15).

4 Undo the screws securing the oil pump pick-up/strainer pipe to the pump, then unscrew the four nuts, and withdraw the oil pump pick-up/strainer pipe and oil baffle (see illustration).

9.4 Removing the oil baffle to provide access to crankshaft and bearings
9.4 Removing the oil baffle to provide access to crankshaft and bearings

5 Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley, so that the crankshaft can be rotated. Note that each piston/connecting rod assembly can be identified by its cylinder number (counting from the timing belt end of the engine) etched into the flat-machined surface of both the connecting rod and its cap. The numbers are visible from the front (exhaust side) of the engine. Furthermore, each piston has an arrow stamped into its crown, pointing towards the timing belt end of the engine. If no marks can be seen, make your own before disturbing any of the components, so that you can be certain of refitting each piston/connecting rod assembly the right way round, to its correct (original) bore, with the cap also the right way round (see illustrations).

9.5A Each connecting rod and big-end bearing cap will have a flat-machined
9.5A Each connecting rod and big-end bearing cap will have a flat-machined surface visible from the front (exhaust) side of the engine, with the cylinder number etched in it

9.5B Piston crown markings
9.5B Piston crown markings

A 1.6 and 1.8 litre engines B 2.0 litre engines
1 Gudgeon pin diameter grade - when used 2 Piston skirt diameter grade 3 Arrow mark - pointing to timing belt end of engine

6 Use your fingernail to feel if a ridge has formed at the upper limit of ring travel (about a quarter-inch down from the top of each cylinder). If carbon deposits or cylinder wear have produced ridges, they must be completely removed with a special tool (see illustration). Follow the manufacturers instructions provided with the tool. Failure to remove the ridges before attempting to remove the piston/connecting rod assemblies may result in piston ring breakage.

9.6 A ridge reamer may be required, to remove the ridge from the top of each
9.6 A ridge reamer may be required, to remove the ridge from the top of each cylinder - do this before removing the pistons!

7 Slacken each of the big-end bearing cap bolts half a turn at a time, until they can be removed by hand. Remove the No 1 cap and bearing shell. Dont drop the shell out of the cap.

8 Remove the upper bearing shell, and push the connecting rod/piston assembly out through the top of the engine. Use a wooden hammer handle to push on the connecting rods bearing recess. If resistance is felt, double-check that all of the ridge was removed from the cylinder.

9 Repeat the procedure for the remaining cylinders.

10 After removal, reassemble the big-end bearing caps and shells on their respective connecting rods, and refit the bolts fingertight.

Leaving the old shells in place until reassembly will help prevent the bearing recesses from being accidentally nicked or gouged. New shells should be used on reassembly.

11 Dont attempt to separate the pistons from the connecting rods - see Section 12.

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