All about Ford Mondeo

Crankshaft - removal
Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures / Crankshaft - removal


Note: The crankshaft can be removed only after the engine/transmission has been removed from the vehicle. It is assumed that the transmission and flywheel/driveplate, timing belt, cylinder head, sump, oil pump pick-up/strainer pipe and oil baffle, oil pump, and piston/connecting rod assemblies, have already been removed. The crankshaft lefthand oil seal carrier must be unbolted from the cylinder block/crankcase before proceeding with crankshaft removal.

1 Before the crankshaft is removed, check the endfloat. Mount a DTI (Dial Test Indicator, or dial gauge) with the stem in line with the crankshaft and just touching the crankshaft (see illustration).

10.1 Checking crankshaft endfloat with a dial gauge
10.1 Checking crankshaft endfloat with a dial gauge

2 Push the crankshaft fully away from the gauge, and zero it. Next, lever the crankshaft towards the gauge as far as possible, and check the reading obtained. The distance that the crankshaft moved is its endfloat; if it is greater than specified, check the crankshaft thrust surfaces for wear. If no wear is evident, new thrustwashers should correct the endfloat; these are part of the No 3 (centre) main bearing upper shell (see illustration).

10.2 Thrustwashers integral with No 3 (centre) main bearing upper shell
10.2 Thrustwashers integral with No 3 (centre) main bearing upper shell control crankshaft endfloat

3 If no dial gauge is available, feeler gauges can be used. Gently lever or push the crankshaft all the way towards the right-hand end of the engine. Slip feeler gauges between the crankshaft and the right-hand face of the No 3 (centre) main bearing to determine the clearance (see illustration).

10.3 Checking crankshaft endfloat with a feeler gauge
10.3 Checking crankshaft endfloat with a feeler gauge

4 Check the main bearing caps, to see if they are marked to indicate their locations (see illustration). They should be numbered consecutively from the timing belt end of the engine - if not, mark them with numberstamping dies or a centre-punch. The caps will also have an embossed arrow pointing to the timing belt end of the engine. Noting the different fasteners (for the oil baffle nuts) used on caps 2 and 4, slacken the cap bolts a quarterturn at a time each, starting with the left- and right-hand end caps and working toward the centre, until they can be removed by hand.

10.4 Before unbolting crankshaft main bearing caps, note arrows pointing to
10.4 Before unbolting crankshaft main bearing caps, note arrows pointing to timing belt end of engine (A), and bearing numbers (B) consecutive from timing belt end

5 Gently tap the caps with a soft-faced hammer, then separate them from the cylinder block/crankcase. If necessary, use the bolts as levers to remove the caps. Try not to drop the bearing shells if they come out with the caps.

6 Carefully lift the crankshaft out of the engine. It may be a good idea to have an assistant available, since the crankshaft is quite heavy. With the bearing shells in place in the cylinder block/crankcase and main bearing caps, return the caps to their respective locations on the block, and tighten the bolts finger-tight. Leaving the old shells in place until reassembly will help prevent the bearing recesses from being accidentally nicked or gouged. New shells should be used on reassembly.


© 2018 www.fordmon.ru. All Rights Reserved.